Wednesday, July 28, 2010

The Cirrus Academy of Literature, Science, and Personal Hygiene

Yes, this was a great trip. I will get into that.

But first, we had a huge brain-trust on Cirrus. An intellectual surplus way beyond what is reasonably needed to get a boat from California to Hawaii.  Stimulating conversation? Sure, if you can keep up!

Need to know why your colloidal particles are agglomerating?  Worried about Flocculating?  Other issues in the field of Bio-chemistry? Go wake up Ulli.

You have a poem in 18th century Portuguese and want it translated into Spanish, but it has to RHYME WHILE TRANSLATED IN REAL TIME. Then go get Ric out of the head, if that is even remotely possible.

Caroline doesn’t have as many advanced degrees, but may be the smartest of all…especially if you are one of those people who needs to EAT FOOD, or GO FAST ON A SAILBOAT.Without her, we would have been a boat full of skinny, starving people, slowly drifting towards Hawaii while discussing Victor Hugo and String Theory.

Of all Pac Cup sailors, Kathy must be the best-read, and most loving of the written word. Her literary knowledge is a resource for all. But I have to confess, I liked to secretly watch her wince each time I used a split infinitive.

And of course Bill: the ultimate scientist-mariner, whose passion for the two disciplines (among others) has merged into a mastery of the ocean going vessel, and voyaging itself. Here is an example from on-board: I wanted to make the boat go faster, so I offered one of my favored solutions…to go in the cabin, and run forward as fast as possible, flinging my body against the main bulkhead to move the boat forward the way a hammer forces a nail. He buried his head in some calculations and soon corrected me. No, this would actually REDUCE forward momentum because the aft-ward force of running to the front would MORE THAN OFFSET the impact of striking the main bulkhead at full speed. He suggested staying on deck, moving all the way to the bow, and running aft at maximum velocity. “What do I do when I reach the transom?” “Just keep going”, said Bill.

So yes, it was a brainy crowd, very stimulating and fun to be with. Bill, many thanks for inviting me into the extended Cirrus family, with so many new friendships and memories. I hope I did my part. The 2010 Pacific Cup is atop my short list of epic passages on the water, and in life, to be recounted and cherished forever.

Yes, I will prepare for next trip by delving a little deeper into the New York Times best seller list, if one of you guys will just watch a few episodes of The Simpsons to even the score.

Mark Denzer

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Caroline Heinrich

Aloha Cirrus and Family and Friends who supported us during our voyage across the great blue Pacific Ocean.....whew!

This is my 3rd passage on Cirrus with Bill and each one of them has been awesome and unique in their own way.  This crew of ours was fabulous.  I've sailed with Ulli in the 2004 PacCup and he is so straight forward.  However, when he starts to cut up his business pants to look like a rag tag pirate shorts...watch out, cuz he gets pretty hilarious then....awesome watch partner and thanks for getting us home Navigator Boy!!

Rick was our green horn/Rookie.  He did an awesome job communicating to the world...really...the world...I never felt so much celebrity status then knowing people from Columbia, Portugal, Spain, Germany, etc where watching our every move. Thanks Rick for staying on the helm 30 minutes more during my dinner cooking... I'm sure it was worth it!!  Love Ya!

Mark was our "hands on", fix it..kinda of guy.  Nothing was too hard and he fix it fast...no questions ask.  He was also the winch on board...I'm the cleaning boy.....After I cook, he was there cleaning up the dishing and then some.  Very cheerful, full of energy.. total energizer bunny.  Thanks Mark for clean the head too.  esp with the shi shi everywhere!!

Kathy holds a special place in my time on Cirrus.  She was a trooper.  She not only did the race, but delivered the boat with Bill and Kate and Chris to San Fran.  I would never do that.  Princess that I am...too hard.......and they had a tough trip over.  I heard about her sickness....ugh...I wanted to make ever effort to be in San Fran early to help her out with the food prep.  She did an awesome job.  None of the food that I cooked or served would have been there if it was not for her provisioning sheet.  Very detail and I added more junk food than necessary, but Hey, I don't live on the mainland...so a few extra Trader Joes...well, didn't kill anyone!!! ha ha ha .  Thanks Kathy for your willingness to come out early on your watch to let me off and sleep  and for taking care of my Hot Potatoe bunk each night.  It really did help to sleep where I slept....all because of your thoughtfulness....yeah and you wanted the food too!!!!!!  Hope to see you and the Berkeley gang soon. 

Last but not least....Bill.....I truely enjoy sailing with Bill.  There is no other person in this world who is the smartest, caring, thoughtfull person I know.  And, he is willing to put up with my "Bag Lady" status. 

You're the best Bill. 
Aloha to all and Guten Tag
Shalom, Adios, Aufwiedersehen

Wonderful Start Photos

Randy Riddle has posted a great set of start photos onto the web. Some photos from the Golden Gate looking down. Push the button for a sideshow.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Kathy McGraw


I go back on Cirrus now and can't believe I just spent a month of days confined to its 40 foot space--because it was not confining.  It's this unmoving ground that seems too solid.  I like a deck beneath my feet, a floaty bed with the water rushing by nearby, the ultimate planetarium just a step away, my needs limited to what's already on the boat.  To want what you have--seems easier on a boat.

I am no survivalist purist.  Yes, I struggled at times to keep down enough water to keep my pee from coming out brown (and succeeded!  Key to this--sleep with your water bottle and drink every time you go to bed or wake up.)  The trip from Hawaii to California included days of seasickness, intense heat, no wind, glassy seas, lots of motoring, and then lots of hand steering in high seas.  It also included watching episodes of "West Wing" on my iPad and finishing "Pale Fire" by Nabokov.  It included nights of stargazing, of identifying constellations with skipper Bill--Scorpio, Cygnus, the Summer Triangle.

The race from California was more comfortable and more focused on sailing fast--but there were still nights I could fit in cultural juxtapositions--we had a couple days of light winds, and Bill shortened the watch schedule from four hours to two and let us stand watch alone.  One starless night, standing watch alone, zipping along into the blackness, watching the phosphorescence in the wake, I listened to show tunes.  "If I Were a Rich Man" and "Cabaret"--such moments are so Evelyn Waugh-esque--because I held two thoughts in my head--my remoteness from civilization, my responsibility to my crew and the possibility of things going quickly and catastrophically wrong, contrasted with the utter frivolity of show tunes memorializing diaspora and forshadowing holocaust.  "What good is sitting alone in your bunk . . . "  I believe I sang out loud, but softly, as to not wake anyone.

Clearly, I was not the strongest crew member, or the funniest, or the most helpful.  My attitude at times lagged.  At times, I watched episodes of "Firefly" in my bunk, and requested breakfast in bed.  I didn't wash very many dishes, but I washed some.  I was not quick to hand steer when I knew that "Auto" could do better, and, yes, I did get overconfident after several turns at the helm under spinnaker and accidentally jibed (but then recovered!  No breakages or injuries!)

I take some credit on the delivery that when the winds and waves were high and lives were at stake (when are they not at stake?) I came through and dragged myself on deck for multiple watches, but those laurels only last as long as the next race.

Yesterday, my older sister asked me what I learned from these trips.  Other than becoming more intensely aware of where I fall short, I also became aware of where I want to do better.  I fall a little in love with each of my crewmates on these lengthy trips, become impressed by their positive qualities, and want to become a better person.  I listen to their stories, learn the names of the people important to them.  For a time, the heaviness of one's own story lifts and we share in the ur story--a group of people slowly traveling from here to there.

I will always treasure the memory of Chris singing "Bird on a Wire;"  the night Bill and I talked about the novels of Neal Stephenson; Kate laughing in her bunk at my jokes;  Ulli slowly revealing his shapely legs, cutting his long pants with dull scissors slightly shorter each day as the weather got warmer;  Caroline's catching, cleaning, and cooking up several meals of Mahi Mahi;  Mark's spot on speculations regarding Pegasus' plans to sabotage Cirrus by sending remote controlled attack flying fish;  Ric's reciting lines from Pablo Neruda in Spanish.

Thanks so much to everyone who made these trips possible for all of us.  But let it be known--those of us who were there were the lucky ones.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Cirrus has Finished!


On Tuesday morning, at around Oh-dark-thirty (0200 actually), several "friends of Cirrus" were at KYC listening to the VHF radio. We heard the KYC escort vessel Nore hail Cirrus on channel 68, saying welcome to Kaneohe Yacht Club. About a half hour later, the crowd assembled at slip G54 to peer into the darkness and wait for the lights of Cirrus to appear. As the lights ghosted closer and closer, we began to be able to make out her distinctive pointed bow and gray hull, and the cheering started. And here she is, sliding into the slip, with camera flashes exploding in all directions. Welcome Home Cirrus, and, to the crew, welcome back into the warm embrace of friends and family. Well done.

Arrival time: 02:05 HST

At the 25 miles check-in I reported an ETA of 02:05 Hawaiian Standard Time. We still intend to use the Sampan Channel, and it currently seems likely that there is no delay due to perhaps too low water.

We were told the finish line buoy is missing, so we need to go to the virtual "Midpoint" as provided in the race instructions.

See you in, like, 4 hours,
Aloha, Ulli

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Monday, July 19, 2010

Perhaps our most Beautiful Day

by Rick:

Its Monday afternoon and we are around 75 miles from Oahu. The boat is moving along softly at around 7 knots. The seas are very mild, perhaps two feet, while the wind is a little over 10 knots. The sun is out and the sky is an incredible blue with white clouds visible off in the distance but not above us. The color of the water is a pure indigo blue. It all adds up to perhaps the most wonderful day we have had in the whole trip; its a great way to end the voyage. Some of the crewmembers are sleeping in the mild heat of the cabin and away from the sun. The others are up on deck casually and quietly talking about a thousand different things. The ship's atmosphere is one of slowness and laziness.

Its funny how each day has a tone of its own, the other day when we were catching fish we were all bustling with energy and activity. Today we are very relaxed and placidly enjoying the beauty that is all around us.

Several have bathed out on deck taking advantage of the easy conditions and the warm sun; everyone one wants to be looking their best for our arrival.

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A Finish for the Real Men Among Us

Sunrise saw a boat slowly crossing minor waves and low wind. It shouldn't stay this way. Conditions were just right to get the spinnaker up. Shortly after, the wind picked up, the waves increased, and we were flying through the water. It continued. We were at the limit. Waves crashed over the bow, jumping the dodger, filling the cockpit; fish flying through the air, tuna and mahi-mahi bouncing their heads at the hull. Rogue waves all over the place, playing ping-pong with that little float called Cirrus. Skipper was a bit concerned, but on we went. The kite almost exploding, we needed three men for the spinnaker trim alone. We sure made a good time, taken off an hour at least from the finish time. The photo shows us hard at work at the helm.

NO! NOT THIS PHOTO! THE OTHER, THE ONE WITH THE PHOTOSHOP EXTENSION! DON'T SEND THIS ONE ! ..... Too late.

Well, now that you know I do admit that I may have not have been completely thruthfull in describing all the nuances of our final day at sea. But what can you say about a day in mellow weather, with beamy wind blowing into white sails? I let Rick give the answer. The Sarong-Bimini is Caroline's work - whose else? I am so ashamed.

But it is true that we are making good progress; the low waves allow decent speed even at low wind. And Otto is driving, which at beam reach he is doing really well. Currently we are 1 hour 15 min ahead of expectations, and may even get better. So arrival time closer to 2 a.m. Hawaiian time (not 3 am as reported earlier). Be aware that things may still change up or down! Watch for our 25 miles forecast in about 4 hours.
Ulli

P.S. The 100 mile check-in was a real problem. There was so much noise that I could understand basically nothing. And vice-versa. Despite that I could make out that it was Valerie, who was talking. Don't know on what grounds, but I was sure about that. Some 30 min later, after recharging the batteries - though this has not been the problem - it worked still poorly, but at least we finally got all the info across. Hopefully 25 miles is easier.

A Few Witty Phrases Captured During our Trip

All gatherings of small groups for an extended period of time give place to witty or funny phrases that stand out from among all the conversation. Here are a few selections from the latest voyage of the sailing sloop Cirrus:

- While discussing tactics early on in the race:

"We need not focus on going fast on this race, we just have to avoid being slow."

- In describing bouts of sea sickness and moments of peak vulnerability, a crew member made a comment her husband hopes does not hold true once back home:

"I only throw up when I'm taking off my clothing."

- The hot bunk system depends on fairness and solicitude on behalf of the crew; no one should linger in the bunk while others, tired and just off watch need to have their rest. One male crew member, still groggy from sleep, did not measure his words carefully when he offered his bunk to a female crewmember:

"Want to get in?" he said motioning at his bunk where he laid. The female crewmember promptly set things straight by responding "Are you getting out?"

- There was a great and fruitful day of fishing where three Mahi Mahi were brought on board. The fish would land and flap around presenting a bit of a danger to the crew and a greater chance of ending back in the water. An old trick is to pour some alcohol in their gills which kills the fish almost immediately. This being a strictly dry boat at all times during this voyage, the only alcohol on board was a bit of ceremonial Hawaiian drink used by the skipper when he departs and arrives at ports. This small vial was called for and used on all three fish. A member of the crew, strongly missing libations over these two weeks of sailing had this observation:

"It's ironic that on this boat only the fish are having Schnapps."

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Cirrus in Dismay - Crew deteriorating

Clear the channel! Send the ambulance! Gosh, the race has taken too long.

The Final Stretch

by Ulli:

we currently have a big rain shower, the first real one in this race. We needed to not only close the hatch, but also put the door-window in the companionway. Going at a good clip now.

The ETA remains unchanged at 3 a.m. Hawaiian time. Only in the best of circumstances will it be a 1/2 hour earlier. However, since we have a low low tide at about 3 a.m., we may have to hang out a while until the flood comes in and we can go through the Sampan channel. We were discussing hanging the crew out at the end of the boom to give the boat heel and let us go through the channel immediately. After all these good meals, this should have an impact :->. We want to avoid the shipping channel, as it take even more time.

Is there some official advice for the ebb/flood situation? As this is outside the race, you may just as well also give your own info and/or recommendation.

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Sunday, July 18, 2010

In Memoriam of the King

The sad news reached us this morning: Pegasus had crossed the finish line. A quick calculation showed that apart from airlifting Cirrus there was no way to catch up with them. We had to face the reality that we will soon be separated from the King!

The crew broke out in tears during this morning's mourning in the crypta of Cirrus with the cloud paintings on the blue walls, and some needed to drown their sorrow in alcohol (bummer, had only apple cider left; also note the horizon - we had a bit of heel in the washing machine).

What would happen to the King now? Will they take equally good care of HIM as we did? And give HIM the place of honor HE so richly deserves? Questions over questions came to our minds, which we couldn't answer, but only hope for the best.

A last thing remains to be said:
From the crew of Cirrus - Congratulations to Pegasus!

Mahalo to all Friends of Cirrus, who were so supportive in the lost fight,
Aloha, Ulli

No Two Alike

From Bill

1820, Sunday, July 18th, 2010

24-56, 155-14, speed 6, course 205m with 250 nm to go,

Looks like we will be there early Tuesday. Really early if the wind holds up, later if we slow down (probable).

No race is like any other. What a slow start we had. Then a long hard reach on starboard followed by a week of reaching on port tack.

Hardly any spinnaker. Skipper's getting old (er). I can remember when it was a point of pride to blow out $10,000 worth of sails on just about every race. Seems like yesterday.

Crew is shifting gears. Thinking about being home, seeing loved ones, not having to be on edge every moment and available. Single minded dedication to the group is starting to fade into individual concerns.

The last couple days have been really rough. Not big dangerous stormy waves but medium sized waves that seem to come from many different directions. Jumps, lurches, drops, slides............. If you are not holding on most of the time (even when sitting) you will probably get hurt. Bruises are accumulating. How Caroline cooks in these conditions is a marvel. Fresh fish tacos again for lunch today. Lasagna for dinner, dessert, appetizers, etc.

She is so good at it that she is going to miss it once we hit the dock. A special skill.

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En La Recta Final

Faltan 242 millas nauticas para llegar a Oahu, habiendo recorrido 1900 millas mas o menos. Estimamos cruzar la meta a las tres de la manana del Martes 20 y atracaremos una hora y mas tarde en el Kaneohe Yacht Club. Todos estamos muy contentos con nuestra aventura y llegar despues de dos semanas en este gran mar nos presenta con sentimientos encontrados. Queria ahora aprovechar para enviar un saludo muy especial a los familiares y amigos de Puerto Rico, Colombia, Panama, Costa Rica, y Espana que han estado pendiente de nosotros y enviados saludos y deseos de exito. Junto a los amigos de EEUU, Portugal y Alemania, le han dado a esta empresa Hawaiiana un matiz de confraternidad internacional que le ha brindado un gran estimulo a la tripulacion del velero Cirrus.

Reciban un gran abrazo,

Rick

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Saturday, July 17, 2010

Yawn, 'nother one

that is it for the day.

still driving in a washing machine,
ETA estimate: Tuesday, 20th, 3am Hawaiian time (at least we get that thing with the night arrival right :> )
Ulli

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What Could Be More Obvious?

From Bill

What could be more obvious? Right in front of our faces.

We have been speculating and wondering and discussing, all in the wrong directions, trying to figure out why we are having these crazy weather patterns,

Well. Duh!

The only thing it could be is the planetary alignment that everyone is talking about. After all, think about it, is it possible for Venus, Mars and Saturn to line up between the sun and the moon without it having some profound effect.

With that problem behind us let's move on to a discussion of communications.

At the start of the trip we were using a satellite telephone with world wide coverage. (Maybe even the whole solar system.)Then when it was clear that we were going to stick to the Pacific Ocean we switched to the SSB radio and used it to make our daily check in reports and to send email by Sailmail. Now that we are getting closer to the land we are going to switch to to the VHF radio that is only good for line of sight communications (or a little more). Then, of course, we'll fire up the cell phones. As we approach the dock there will be a lot of waving and shouting. Finally, there will be body contact and then ............

FLASH! FLASH! FLASH!

After downing wonderful snacks of raw fish and then wonderful fresh fish tacos from this morning's Mahi Mahi catch up went the cry: "Hit On The Line!"

Another Mahi-Mahi at least twice as big as the first. It has been filleted and is in the cooler. The Skipper has set an arbitrary limit of 3 fish per day. (And already there are discussions: "Did he really mean 3 Mahi-Mahi or was that a 3 fish total?")

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Firecrackers

by Ulli:
The last day was partially clouded, but enough sun came through to make for a hot day and a sunburn at my arms. In the evening the clouds were back as a solid, thick cover, ruining our attempts for watching the celestial party of moon, Venus, Mars, and Saturn. Hence we had another pitch black night. Makes for fun driving. Especially when in addition with up to 20 kn of wind the waves seem to come from all sides. It was like in a washing machine. Nobody slept too well in those very bumpy conditions.

But the deep blackness enhances the magic effects of the ocean, which you come to see only on a vessel at sea. When Cirrus breaks through the waves, she creates whitecaps on the water around her, and in particular in the water running away from the stern. This rough stirring of the water activates all bio-fluorescence available in living organism or in animal and plant debris, and as a result, we have little flashes of greenish-white light in the water. Thousands of them, in an endless stream. My favorite visualization is a Chinese man sitting in the cockpit and throwing his rice-grain sized firecrackers in the water by the handful. Upon contact with water they explode.

In more scientific terms it is about the presence of "Green Fluorescence Protein (GFP)" which can be activated simply mechanically, here by the boat movement through the waves. This protein has become an important tool in every genetic engineering lab. But here on the water it is simply the magic of firecrackers.

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got fish?

we do!

Even before dawn Caroline put out the fishing lines, two of them. At 10:30am PDT the sounding voice of a hunter, signaling success in the efforts to feed her cubs, boomed through the boat. Otto was doing the driving, Caroline had her eyes on firmly on the prey, which was still fighting in the water. Some 20 min later we had Sashimi on the plates! Delicious. And now, sitting at the computer on the nav station, which is next to the galley, I smell pan fried fish for lunch.

Now let's the race begin, Aloha, Ulli

Friday, July 16, 2010

Moon and Planets

by Ulli:
Today and tomorrow you can see an interesting constellation in the sky:
After sunset, look West. You see a bright evening star, which is Venus. Further to your left you see the waxing (increasing) moon. Tonight you see halfway between the two the planet Mars, which has a slightly reddish tint. Again halfway between Mars and Moon you see planet Saturn (the one with the rings; possibly difficult to identify without telescope). Tomorrow the moon will have moved a bit further to the left. Mars is now approx. 1/3rd the distance on the line from Venus to Moon, and Saturn almost exactly on the midpoint from Venus to moon.

It was a semi-clear sky during the day, but now it has become cloudy again. We probably have no chance of seeing it. Enjoy.

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Endlich, Finalmente, Finally

From Bill

Around noon today, under blue skies and fluffy white clouds, with the wind behind us and the boldness of destiny before us it happened. Yes, make no mistake, The chute was launched. You heard right: "THE SPINNAKER IS IN THE AIR!!!!!!!"

A cry went up from the assembled throng, "LET OUR DEEDS BE WORTH A SONG."

As a line formed for the privilege of driving the boat in these trying conditions grown men were seen elbowing the weaker of their colleagues out of the way. Women were observed abandoning their children by the wayside.

Finally, as some semblance of order was being imposed on the process another cry went up "A Squall Approaches. Clear a path for the Skipper." And so it went, from one adventure to another until all were sated. Reluctantly, around 1630 the fun came to an end and we put the chute away for the night. More tales tomorrow.

Visitors to this site often ask what they can bring for the crew, what have they been missing: ice cream, pickles, whatever.

A casual pole reveals that the most desired reception of all would be a luncheon (perhaps on the next day) consisting of perfectly ripe fruit, soft french cheeses, pate, crudites, sliced baggette, and a dipping sauce of extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar. A suitable, crisply cooled, white wine (or two) would be nice. Don't go to any trouble. We were thinking mostly WHOLE FOODS. For dessert, a variety of gelato--lemon grass flavor is a particular favorite of the skipper.